Maybelline Queen











Eye shadows offer endless creativity. They just may be the most exciting product for both makeup artists and makeup lovers to buy. These days, the number of colors, textures, and formulations is near infinite. But with all the choices, compiling a makeup kit or adding to your everyday shadow regime can get a little mind-numbing. Here are a few things to think about as you build your perfect eye kit.

 

Even in the basic powder shadow category, brands can be very different due to the amount of pigment versus filler they use, as well as the process in which they press product into pans. Experiment and find the formulas that work best for you and deliver the results you desire. For instance, you might prefer a highly pigmented powder with a small amount of filler that feels dry to the touch, or favor a shadow that feels soft and creamy on your brush and has a lighter pigment load and color payoff. It’s all about discovering your preferences and finding your favorites.

 

Putting a Palette Together

 

I’ve found that palettes are the perfect way to carry makeup for professional work, and they also fit well into a tote or makeup bag. You can purchase pre-made palettes—available in pretty much every price point—from many brands, or buy brand-specific empty palettes and build your own customized collection within one color range. You can also buy empty palettes or containers that allow you to add in pans of eye shadow from multiple brands.

 

A word of advice: keep it simple. When compiling your palette, don’t get caught up in the excitement of buying the most daring shades. So many artists want to get all of the brightest and boldest colors and textures, but basic shadows will be the basis of your application and lay the groundwork for great makeup.

 

Check for Quality

 

I recommend checking the quality of the product before you purchase. Look at reviews online and speak to other artists about what they love or perhaps dislike about the product. I’m not a product snob, but the difference in quality between pro and prestige versus mass products can be obvious and measurable. A few key questions to ask yourself:

 

• Does the shadow allow you versatility in application? Meaning, can you apply it both sheer and with more full coverage?
• When using a variety of brushes, will it have a smooth consistency?
• Is it durable for high-intensity jobs and situations? In other words, does the product cause a lot of fallout on the face during application?

 

1. The Highlighting Palette

 

A highlighting palette made up of lighter shades and base shadows is an absolute must-have. This group includes white, light beige, cream, vanilla, peach, and buttercream shades, as well as soft pinks and apricots. The lighter colors can be used to draw attention to a feature, cause a certain area to pop, or simply make a part of the face look more dominant.

 

 

I prefer to keep these shades in matte or satin consistencies, because you don’t always want your highlight shades to have texture. Base shades should always be matte, or else the shimmer or frost will show through.

 

2. The Contouring Palette

 

Next, to build in shape and definition, think about a contouring palette which include darker colors that will recess an area or make it appear smaller. You can also use contouring shades to line and define brows, eye lids, or any area that needs depth or dimension. This group of shades should contain matte shadows in various cool and warm browns, deep burgundies, rich greys, and neutrals on the darker side of the spectrum—including black.

 

 

3. The Color Palettes

 

Once you have your fundamentals for shape and form, let your creative side come into play by building your color palettes. Here, let your imagination run wild. But still, be strategic and think about what you can combine for unlimited possibility. 

 

 

 

I prefer to separate palettes into warm and cool, and then arrange into common color families. I also like to keep matte and satin textured shadows separate from frosts, shimmers, and glitters so loose particles don’t end up compromising your flat shadows. Think about what works on your clients and what you need to complete the job at hand. Represent all of your primary and secondary colors, tints, shades, and tones. Then, go crazy with an endless array of your faves: deep rich reds, bright yellows, cool blues, greens, pinks, violets, indigos—whatever your heart desires in both soft and strong colors!

 

4. The Texture Palette

 

You will also need a texture palette—something made up of various frosts that highlight, change the surface, or add impact. Metallic eye shadows also fit well into this group and allow you to transform any eye into numerous looks. Stay aware of seasonal trends and what’s on the red carpet and runway for the latest must-have shadow shades.

 

 

Now you know how to meet the needs of any client. Eye shadows can lay the groundwork for a look’s shape, texture, or tone, from traditional to bold. Be smart about your palettes and arm yourself with the right shadows, so you can truly transform any application with a simple swipe.



 

Eyebrows are one of the most misunderstood areas of makeup artistry, and having an artist’s understanding of eyebrows is crucial to impeccable makeup.

As a makeup artist, you need to be situational when correcting, filling in or shaping a brow — making decisions based on the needs of your client and the final look you trying to create. Many makeup artists want to add a dramatic eyebrow into every makeup application, but an inappropriate eyebrow can age your client, distort the shape of the face, provide an unwanted emotion or take away from the desired focal point of your makeup design.

 

Tweezers and scissors are your first line of defense against offensive brows. With these tools, you can create shape as well as adjust thickness and length. Every artist should have a great pair of slant tweezers (some artists favorites are Tweezerman and Lavaque) as well as safety scissors, which are essential for trimming and adjusting.

 

For a true artist trick, try a pair of “twissors” (a scissor-tweezer hybrid) from Alcone or Cinema Secrets. Because they can cut hair really close to the skin without cutting the skin itself, twissors make eyebrow sculpting even easier: you can get rid of hairs that are too long or growing in the wrong direction without the time commitment of tweezing, or redness it can cause. I also recommend carrying a brush or comb for setting the brow hairs into place.

 

Many artists leave eyebrow pencils out of their makeup arsenal, but don’t make that mistake—pencils are a must-have. Pencils work perfectly on brows, because the marks sit on top of the skin and add dimension, providing volume to a flat or thin brows. Use them to fill in sparse or patchy eyebrows with a natural look that mimics missing hairs. I prefer mechanical pencils, as the thinner tip allows for precise application and appears more natural. My favorites include Kevyn Aucoin’s The Precision Brow Pencil, MAC Eye Brows, and Anastasia Brow Wiz.

 

Shadows and other powder-based products bring dimension and depth to brows, especially those that might are on the too-full side. They are also ideal for long wear and allow a range of effects from natural to dramatic. I prefer those that are dense in pigment and have a matte finish. I recommend carrying powders from soft taupes to rich browns to complement natural eye and hair hues, as well as burgundy and burnt sienna for matching processed hair colors.

 

Gels and waxes are wonderful for lightening a darker brow or holding a disorderly one in place. Softening or sculpting the brow can take years off of the face and can help spotlight certain elements of the face. For example, if you want the focus to be a smoky eye, lightening up the eyebrow a few shades can direct attention where you want or need it. For a collection that’s as universal as possible, carry brow gels or waxes in clear, blonde, ash, and taupe.

Pro Tips

For a modern brow, you need to see skin and individual hairs. I also aim to have high and low points in every brow look I create. A great pro trick is to use a brow pen or gel liner with a small precision brush to mimic the look of individual hairs. Just a few subtle strokes can make even the thinnest or most over tweezed eyebrows look terrific. I love pens specifically designed for this purpose, but a brown gel liner from any line will do.

 

Great eyebrows are a secret essential element. When applied correctly, an eyebrow frames the eye, flatters the face, and provides balance without competing with the rest of your makeup. Be prepared to deliver the perfect eyebrow with every application, and your makeup will always be beauty page perfection.



{November 25, 2013}   Gorg Makeup in Wet Weather!

 

Has your otherwise perfect makeup application been washed away by a surprise downpour? With the rainy season approaching, it’s time to prep your beauty routine to make sure your face never gets drenched on again! Here are some tips and tricks on how to keep your makeup looking gorgeous—not washed out—in wet weather.

Face

The trick to perfecting your base is in the application—instead of caking on a thick amount, make sure to add thin layers of product until you reach coverage you’re happy with. Since powder turns splotchy in the rain, choose a cream, mousse, or liquid texture as a base, to ensure longer-lasting coverage. If you must powder, dust a light layer of translucent powder with a large, fluffy powder brush. Use concealer sparingly, and only where necessary.

Cheeks

Since powder is best to avoid in wet weather, the same holds true for powder blushes. Opt for cream, gel, and mousse textures instead. In a damp atmosphere, these formulations will last longer on the skin.

Eyes

It’s a wet-weather no-brainer: choose waterproof eye liner, mascara, and cream shadow formulas. Avoid using liner or mascara on the waterline and lower lashes—who wants raccoon eyes?

Lips

A rainy day isn’t the best time to experiment with bold shades and extreme textures. Bright colors and high-gloss formulas are typically a rainy day no-no (they have the tendency to smudge everywhere in humidity or dampness). Stick with a neutral, pinky-mauve tone in a comfortable satin formula.




{November 20, 2013}   Holiday Look!

 

It’s party season! Time to pump up the volume with an extra-glitzy face so you’re sure to make that time under the mistletoe tempting. I found three of the hottest holiday trends for you. Try each individually—or if you’re daring rock all three!

Red Lips

It’s a classic for a reason. Red lips evoke the warmth and glamour of Christmas Past. Best of all, anyone can pull it off.

To combat color bleeding or smudging, line your mouth with a matching liner or set the stage with a lip primer that will help keep any bright pigment in place. For true lipstick migration-proofing, nothing beats a reverse lip liner, which uses a clear waxy formula to form a barrier. Finally, for precise lipstick application, use a lip brush.

Gilded Shadow

Metallic shadows are always a holiday staple.

For a high-fashion foil effect, moisten your shadow brush before applying, or smooth on a cream shadow and a tap powder shadow on top with fingers (bonus: this has massive staying power — even after your third eggnog).

Classic Cat Eye

Polished black liquid liner look shows no sign of declining in popularity, with every major brand hustling to debut their pen versions. My new favorites have a patent leather-like sheen that makes them a perfect complement to the glitter and shine of all the season’s parties. The famous cat eye flick takes a bit of practice, but the end result is totally worth it.



{November 18, 2013}   Scar Coverage

 

Whether from a childhood incident or acne, we all have a few annoying scars that are impossible to properly conceal. Depending on the depth and size of the original wound, scar tissue forms on top of the skin, sometimes causing a raised—or hypertrophic—appearance. But this growth is part of the skin’s natural regenerating process. Scar tissue replaces normal skin after an injury—it’s how the wound heals itself. While scars exist in many textures, they’re often smooth because sweat glands and hair follicles don’t grow back through scar tissue. With so many variables in wound healing, disguise can sometimes seem difficult. Remember, the ultimate focus is coverage that looks as natural as possible. Check out my tips below to help cover and protect scars—old and new!

1. Heal and protect.

Scars easily darken and can hyperpigment from sun exposure, so your first job is to keep them away from any of those harmful UV rays. Be religious with your SPF!

2. Avoid oil-based primers.

Stay away from primers or moisturizers that contain oil. You don’t want the surface of your skin to become too slippery, otherwise your pigment won’t properly adhere.

3. Match the surrounding skin.

Scars that start off discolored—red, purple, brown—often become white over time. For invisible coverage, match your concealer to the skin surrounding the scar, not the scar itself.

4. Get heavy duty.

To ensure long-lasting wear, use products that claim water, tear, and sweat resistance. Seal your makeup with a setting powder or fixative spray for extra coverage protection.

5. Take it to the next level.

If you’re looking for a long-term solution for your scars, look into other technologies. Resurfacing lasers can remove extra tissue on the surface of the skin, while microdermabrasion uses an electric machine to smooth and contour the surface of the scar. A steroid injection uses anti-inflammatory cortisone to a flatten hypertrophic scarring. Silicone-based gel sheeting—a less extreme alternative—can also help minimize scarring over time by applying a firm pressure to the area. If you’re ready to take drastic measures, you can also cover your scar with a permanent cosmetic tattoo.



 

 

When it comes to buying the right concealer, a lot of people get nervous. Some don’t know how to find their shade or even where exactly to apply it on the face. Others think they have it figured out, and then end up looking like a reversed raccoon, with white rings around the eyes.

 

But that doesn’t have to happen. Once you know the professional tricks for choosing a shade that’s right and putting it on correctly, concealer is your best friend. It can brighten a tired face, cover a blemish, bring attention to a focal point, and camouflage under-eye discoloration (without the reversed raccoon effect). Used with foundation, concealer can also change or refine any complexion with dramatic, painterly effect.

 

Old-school concealers are still a part of every person’s makeup arsenal. They tend to be cream or opaque-liquid formulas and come in a variety of forms—pots, wands, and sticks. Traditionally, concealers are dense by design and can feel a bit like your grandmother’s makeup, or the kind of product favored by rich octagenarians in Palm Springs.

 

As such, I am not always a fan of traditional concealers. When not applied correctly, they can look cakey and heavy. They also tend to be yellow in tone, which gives you limited color-correction capabilities. That said, a traditional concealer can be useful for its density and opaque pigment. When you need true camouflage or heavy coverage, it generally does the trick. 

 

Yet in place of traditional concealers, I tend to prefer the newer, more lightweight-formula products on the market these days. The sheerness of these newer concealers allows me to combine them with other formulas and foundation, so that the skin looks flawless both in photos and in person. And today’s concealers aren’t limited to yellow—they come in a wider range of undertones like peach, coral, or orange. The trick with color correction is to choose a concealer with a base which has an undertone opposite of the discoloration you’re trying to cover up. For example, to disguise blue-toned under-eye circles, try a concealer with a peach or coral undertone.

 

Carrying my concealers in palettes means I always have the perfect shade with me. In my go-to, I usually keep a peach tone, along with an apricot, deep orange, bright orange, plus a yellow and a pink or red—and all in a light, medium, and dark shade. Of course, not all skin tones work with yellows and pinks, so I also carry a palette of primary colors plus concealers in white, dark brown, and black. This allows me to custom-mix any shade I might need. For darker skin, sometimes a bright orange and a deep orange concealer can save you from having to use a large amount of foundation.

 

Here’s some more time-tested advice. Now go conceal with confidence!

 

To get the perfect highlight, choose a concealer one or two shades lighter than the complexion. To contour with perfect depth and dimension, choose a concealer one or two shades darker than the complexion.

 

For under-eye shadows and bruises, I prefer a soft, creamy formula that stays put. It’s important to find something that does not dry out or settle into creases and separate.

 

For under-eye bags or discoloration and puffiness, I prefer a product that also has color-correction properties. I love creams in peach or coral for light blue under-eye discoloration and orange for darker and deeper skin tones. (Mineral powder concealers are great, too, because they stay set and work well over highlighted areas.) The trick with under-eye concealer? Choose one that is one or two shades lighter if you need a bit of lift. Match the complexion completely if you want a smooth, even skin tone all over. And for protruding skin or puffiness under the eye, go with something one or two shades darker.

 

 

For spot concealer over blemishes or broken capillaries, I love a concealer that can be applied in sheer strokes and built up in layers for more coverage. A formula with a satin finish will also look more like real skin, rather than accentuate texture like a matte product might.

 

 

 

For scars and cuts, it is important to remember that concealer and makeup do not hide texture. But you can trick the eye by using darker shades to recess or deepen a protrusion or a lighter color to pull something forward. Simple tricks can draw attention away from what you want to keep secret, and spotlight another area of the face.

 

Lighter concealer shades are ideal for making lips look larger and opening up small areas. Try a concealer one shade lighter around the lip line to make lips look kissable and pouty, while achieving the perfect size and shape.

 



 

First there were BB creams, then CCs, and now—you guessed it, DDs. With so many different versions of skin-perfecting products at a range of price points on the market these days, it’s hard to know which to try.

 

Believe it or not, BB creams aka “beauty balms” or “blemish balms,” have actually been around since the ‘60s! The first version was formulated by a German dermatologist, Dr. Christine Schrammek, as a way to help heal patients’ skin and hide redness after a peel or treatment. BBs were introduced to the masses in South Korea and Japan in 1985 and, and hit the U.S. market in 2011, quickly becoming a standout seller for many brands despite a crowded makeup market. Following that success, CC creams (“color correction” or “color control”) were the inevitable next step. BBs were designed to instantly even out skin tone and make your complexion work better, and, in most cases, have SPF built in; CCs take it to the next level, providing all of that, plus long-term benefits—most are made to color correct and improve skin tone over time with regular use.

 

As if things couldn’t get anymore confusing, this year, Julep was the first brand to launch a DD—or “dynamic do-all”—cream in the U.S, which combines the benefits of both BB and CCs together. Initially, BBs and CCs came only in limited shades, often lighter on the complexion spectrum, but now, thankfully, brands like AJ Crimson, Cover FX, and Clinique have released a full range to accommodate skin tones from very light to very dark.

 

It’s a lot to take in, and even after extensive research we’re not convinced there’s a real, marked difference between all three. Still, every product offers different benefits—and we figure any multitasker that can streamline our beauty routines is worth a go.

 

BBs (“beauty balm” or “blemish balm”)

 

BBs are like tinted moisturizers, which give light coverage and hydration perfect for everyday use, but with added benefits. They’re a skincare–makeup hybrid that does it all: primes, refreshes, brightens, moisturizes, and protects (most versions include SPF from 15 up to 50 and beyond). If you want more coverage, you can also try using a BB as a primer under your foundation, rather than switching to a heavier foundation. 

 

CCs (“color correction” or “color control”)

 

CC creams tend to give a little more coverage than BBs, but still feel light and offer similar benefits. The difference is the addition of color correcting ingredients (for example, vitamin C), which help diminish dark spots, neutralize redness, and improve the appearance of skin that’s dull, ashy, or uneven over time. If you have problem skin (anything from acne to hyperpigmentation) or want anti-aging benefits, CC creams may be the right choice.

 

DDs (“dynamic do-all” or “dynamic do-it-all”)

 

Designed to diffuse light, a DD’s strongest asset is its arsenal of anti-agers—usually some combination of botanical oils, hyaluronic acid, antioxidants, and peptides. They’re best for aging skin, and those who want to focus on improving tone and diminishing wrinkles over time. The best DDs are ideal for covering up wrinkles, blemishes, and dark spots, and also work to actually battle all three while you wear them.



{November 13, 2013}   Statement Eyes

Move over, eye shadow! From crystals to velvet stamps, check out three awesomely unique ways to create stunning statement eyes.

Gems, pearls, and even Swarovski crystals! Adding a little bling to your lids has more dazzle than shimmering eye shadow or bold metallic liner ever could. Try rimming your lash lines with crystals or just place one crystal in the inner corner.

Sometimes layering a bit of texture on your eyes can create a multidimensional effect. Eye Liner Patches have a soft velvet texture, not to mention they come in a variety of interesting shapes.

A quick visit to your local arts and crafts store can result in a slew of fun and creative appliqués. If you have patience—and a steady hand with an X-Acto knife—you can design your own seasonal shapes (e.g., mini snowflakes, leaves, or flowers). 



{November 13, 2013}   Using Nude Eyeliner

Black eye pencil is a must have in everyone’s makeup kit, but now nude liner is also making a splash. Having big doll-like eyes like Kim Kardashian can really capture someone’s attention, but not everyone is born with these brilliant orbs. Even Kim Kardashian has a little help from the cosmetic world to make her eyes appear bigger than they really are.

While white can sometimes be a little harsh, a nude or flesh-toned eye liner can open up and enhance the eyes—with subtlety. Make your eyes look wider and brighter with some help from these great eye liners. Rim the inner lash line to create a doll-like innocence or use a nude pencil in your inner tear duct look more awake. You can even use nude on problem areas on your face (so long as the pencil’s flesh-toned), or under the brow bone for a highlight. 

If you want to be truly daring, try wearing your nude liner on your top lid!

1 Pixi Eye Bright Liner

This waterproof eyeliner has a tinge of pink in it, which appears more natural-looking when applied. The best thing about this eye liner is its twist up precision point. You don’t need to worry about having a sharpener in your bag when you use this hypoallergenic liner. 

2 Inner Rim Brightener

Sure, it says “Inner Rim Brightener,” but this liner can be used in more than one way. Try is as on the brow bone to instantly lift and lengthen the shape of your eyes. 

3 Kajal Eyeliner in Topaz

This eye pencil has a different texture than the others. A creamy kajal glides on more easily, which reduces pulling and tugging. Since the eyes are so sensitive, firmer pencils can actually cause damage over time (like wrinkles!) by tugging on skin. Use this kajal formula instead. 

Image courtesy of Celebbuzz


Have you ever smudged foundation on your collar, dropped a mascara wand on your pants, or spilled hair dye on your shirt? Regardless of the surface you’re working on (garment, flooring, or furniture), you must identify what kind of stain you’re dealing with in order to treat it. Oil or wax-based lipstick is the  most common clothing offender, while nail polish and foundation fall closely after. We’ve all had our makeup mishaps, but it’s possible to clean up the mess with these stain-fighting solutions.

Lipstick

Many different cleaning solutions remove lipstick stains. Liquid detergent, isopropyl alcohol, and ammonia cut the grease and oil in most formulations. For all solutions, blot as much lipstick off as you can with a clean damp cloth first, then apply your treatment. Rinse and wash based on label instructions. Remember, never use ammonia on silk or wool! If you’re in a pinch, hairspray also removes lipstick stains—simply spray on the stain, wait a few minutes, then wipe off with a clean cloth.

Mascara

Mascara is a bit trickier to remove, so treat this oil-based product with a professional oil solvent, usually available from a reputable dry cleaning business. The oil solvents in pro products break down protein glues in mascara (the stuff that connects the stain to the fabric). Let the solvent dry on the stain, brush off the excess, and wash the garment accordingly.

Nail Polish

Nail polish is easier to remove than you think. Acetone is too strong on clothes. If you accidentally spill, let the polish dry on your fabric first, then stick clear packing tape over the stain. Rip off the tape like a wax strip and the polish comes off easily!

Liquid Face Makeup

Liquid makeup is oil-based, and it easily gets on most shirt collars. Cut the grease with liquid soaps and detergents that easily dissolve the stain. Blot off excess pigment with a clean cloth, then dab and gently massage your cleaner into the stain, lifting the pigment as you go.

Hair Dye

Since hair dye is so potent, it’s one of the hardest stains to treat. Rubbing alcohol typically does a good job at removing tough dye. You can also use a solvent like turpentine or lighter fluid on certain fabrics, but do your research to make sure it’s fabric-safe first.

MaybellineQueen TIP

Fresh stains come out of fabric easier than already dried stains, so act quickly as soon as you see the spot.

MaybellineQueen TIP

Never rub a stain—it only drives it in deeper into the fabric. Instead, blot and dab with a cloth.

MaybellineQueen TIP

Apply your stain-fighting solutions from the back of the fabric so the stain won’t spread deeper into the fibers.



et cetera